Travel Highlights of Madrid

Madrid was the second stop on our journey and we had the pleasure of staying in a beautiful 5th floor AirBnB apartment/loft just behind Plaza Mayor which is a large square in the center of Madrid.  We found the city very easy to navigate, especially due to our amazing location.  We explored the city for 4 days, keeping a very focused list of attractions and sites we wanted to see.  Everything we saw was within a 25 minute walk from our apartment. 

Here is a brief recap of our favorite attractions in the city of Madrid:

• The Prado Museum – The most famous art museum in Madrid boasting world class European art from as early as the 12th century.  Its collection consists of over 8,500 paintings and 700 sculptures so it can be a bit overwhelming but just make sure you give yourself at least 2 hours to explore the collection. Not surprisingly, The Prado contains the most comprehensive collection of Spanish paintings in the world. Of note, some of the artists featured in the museum include famous works  by El Greco, Goya, Titian, Tintoretto, Bosch, Rubens and Velazquez. Cost is €15 per person.

• Thyssen-Bornemisza – Located just a few minutes walk from The Prado, Thyssen is known as one of the largest private art collections in the world, with over 2,000 pieces of artwork.  Unlike the Prado, photography is allowed in the Thyssen and we were so happy to be able to capture the masterpieces of great artists such as Picasso, Dali, Rembrandt, Monet, Manet, Degas, Van Gogh and countless more.  Thyssen has a vast collection of work beginning from the 12 century up until the 20th century.  Cost is €12 per person.

• Reina Sofia – Although we didn’t have a chance to visit the Reina Sofia, it is clearly completes the trifecta of incredible art museums in Madrid.  The collection focuses mainly on 20th century artwork and cost per person is €10.

• Buen Retiro Park – This is the “central park” of Madrid and the largest park in the city. It originally belonged to the Spanish monarchy but is now Free for the public to enjoy. We rented a paddle boat in Retiro Pond next to the monument to King Alfonso XII. The cost was €8 for 45 minutes on the pond. We highly recommend walking the outskirts of the park where you will find the botanical garden and rose-garden quiet, serene and romantic.  You will also enjoy beautiful sculptures, The Casita del Pescador and Palacio de Cristal.  If the weather is nice, it makes for a great afternoon stroll.

• Plaza Mayor – This is a central plaza in the city of Madrid only a few blocks from Puerta del Sol.  It’s really a tourist trap with traditional shops, cafes, vendors and street performers.  It’s pretty expensive to eat/drink in the plaza, but it’s quite good for people watching during all hours of the day and night.  Also, the vendors in the plazas and city streets are known for selling knock-off goods like purses, wallets, watches, sneakers and pens.  If you’re in the market for a new LV or Chanel handbag, you can score one for €15-25 or even a pair of Air Jordans for €25.  

• El Rastro Market – Open only on Sundays, El Rastro is the largest open air flea market in Madrid.  It’s quite the scene with hundreds of vendors selling new and used items. To be frank, some of the items vendor booths look like a typical garage sale but others are selling very useful items for cheap.  It’s fun for a stroll. Go early (9-11am) as it gets VERY busy.  You can try to bargain with the vendors too – it’s worth a try, right?

The food in Madrid was interesting to us because it was quite different than the American tapas we eat in the US and Canada.  By far, the most common item on any menu is Jamon or Ham, in countless varieties.  We found literally everything to be extremely salty which is no surprise considering everything is infused with some type of ham.  

As an ode to ham, we must recommend you at least walk in to Museu del Jamon, there are several of these eateries within the city. It’s quite a site to see and it’s busy day and night.  You can easily get 2 ham and cheese baguette sandwiches and 2 local draft beers for €4.  Or you can order any combination of meat and cheese platters to go or to eat up at the standing bar.  It’s definitely a memorable experience.

Here are a few delicious and affordable restaurants we recommend in Madrid:

• Rosi La Loca – Casual Spanish tapas restaurant with good service (English speaking), cheap drinks and excellent food.  Dinner for 2 will run you €30-40. They also have a terrific lunch menu which offers appetizer, entrée, dessert and beverage for €13 per person. 

• Takos Al Pastor – This is a quick service style restaurant where you order at the counter and they bring your plate to the table.  It’s good for lunch.  They have excellent, authentic tacos for €1-1.50 each.  Very affordable and delicious but be ready to wait in line…don’t worry, it moves quickly.

• Juana La Loca – Hip & Cool Spanish tapas restaurant with excellent service (English Speaking) and a great ambiance. They are world famous for their Pincho Tortilla which we highly recommend.  Fantastic bottles of wine are offered for only €17.  Dinner for 2 will run you €60-80 with wine. 

After 2 weeks on the road, we had the great pleasure of visiting and staying with some friends in the heart of the city while in Barcelona.  Claire and Gus were excellent tour guides as we walked for 2 days straight throughout the beautiful city with its vast history and incredible architecture. 

During our first full day, we walked 11 miles and covered some serious ground; not to mention, we learned about the importance of Antoni Gaudi to the city of Barcelona as well as the Catalan Movement and how it is still going strong in Barcelona.

To be honest, we expected the people of Barcelona to speak “Spanish” just like we heard in Madrid and we also expected the main flag of Spain to be flying high in the city and yet, we were surprised to learn how different the influence and culture is in Barcelona, which is only a 3 hour train ride from the country’s capital. 

As you likely know, Spain has a very long, tumultuous and rich history dating back to the early middle ages. Catalonia was an independent region of the Iberian Peninsula with its own unique language, culture and laws. In the 15th century, the Aragon and Catalonian regions merged until the 1700’s, when modern-day Spain was born.  Several kings tried to impose the Spanish language and laws on the people in the region but they failed and restored the national Catalan government in 1931. 

There have been many calls for Catalan independence due to the region’s wealth and economic prowess. So much so, the Catalan government called for an informal, non-binding vote on independence in 2014, with 80% of voters wanting to secede from Spain.  Due to the economic hit Spain would take in the event of a secession, the Spanish government determined that Catalonia has no constitutional right to break away. 

All that said, the Catalan culture is stronger than ever in Spain with Catalan flags flying high and proud, dominating over the Spanish culture!  This explains the huge football rivalry between Madrid and Barcelona and the huge difference in food and culture between the two cities as well.

Here are the notable sites we recommend in and near Barcelona city center:

• Park Guell – Probably the #1 most visited site in Barcelona, with 2 different areas: The Monumental Zone (€7 pp) and the Free access zone. It is most famous as one of Antoni Gaudi’s major architectural works. Gaudi is the best known practitioner of Catalan Modernism with a very organic, mesmerizing and distinctive architectural style. We highly recommend purchasing tickets for the Monumental Zone well in advance because it's very likely to sell out!
• Sagrada Familia – A large, unfinished Catholic basilica designed by Antoni Gaudi. The basilica is dedicated to the Holy Family (Mary, Jesus and Joseph). It’s quite expensive to visit at €15pp.  We did not go inside but heard it’s quite magnificent! Again, buy tickets online a few days before you plan your visit. This is a very popular tourist destination and it often sells out.
• Gothic Quarter – The center of the old city of Barcelona. It runs from La Rambla to Via Laietana. It is the oldest part of the city which is obvious due to its medieval landmarks and small, winding streets which resemble a labyrinth.
• Mercado de La Boqueria – Large public market and very famous for its wide variety of foods. It’s huge, loud, crowded and charming at the same time.  There are several bars and restaurants great for lunch or even a snack.  The fruit stalls sell smoothies and freshly squeezed juices and you will find no shortage of Jam (ham) varieties, cheese, olives, and seafood.
• Museu Picasso – This museum has arguably the largest collection of works by Pablo Picasso and was created while he was still living in 1963.  Born in Spain, Picasso felt the city of Barcelona would be the perfect location for a museum in honor of his works.  Picasso himself donated over 900 works to the museum and in 1982, his widow Jacqueline donated 41 pieces the museum.  If you are a fan of the artist’s work, it is a MUST SEE for it’s expansive collection and variety of works throughout his notorious career (€11pp).
• Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya – The national museum showcasing Catalan visual art. It’s most known for it’s collection of Romanesque church paintings (€12pp).  Even if you don’t visit the artwork collection, the building itself is worth a visit. It’s located inside the Palau Nacional, which was constructed for the 1929 International Exposition. 
• Basilica Santa Maria del Mar – An icon of Catalan Gothic culture, built in the 14th century.  It’s beautiful, historic, located in the Gothic Quarter and Free admission.
• Port Vell & Maremagnum – A waterfront harbor and part of the Port of Barcelona. It’s excellent for a long walk, people watching, and dining. There is also a mall, IMAX and Europe’s largest aquarium. The pedestrian walkway is called Rambla de Mar and incorporates a modern swing bridge.  We very much enjoyed exploring the area.

Since we had the pleasure of staying at our friends' home while in Barcelona, we only ventured out for a few meals during our stay.

Here were the 3 key places we went for excellent food and drinks in Barcelona:

• Hotel Casa Fuster - A beautiful, 5-star hotel with luxe, Catalan styling. It's an excellent venue for dinner, the exquisite jazz bar and/or a cocktail on the rooftop terrace.  It's quite pricey!
• Mercado de La Boqueria – Large public market and very famous for its wide variety of foods. It’s huge, loud, crowded and charming at the same time.  There are several bars and restaurants great for lunch or even a snack.  The fruit stalls sell smoothies and freshly squeezed juices and you will find no shortage of Jam (ham) varieties, cheese, olives, and seafood.
• Pantea - An excellent bar and grill on the beach at La Deliciosa down at Sant Miquel Beach. The mojitos are unforgettable and the food is excellent at affordable prices. They have live music as well! Very casual and excellent during summertime.

Below is a brief list of Traditional Foods You MUST Try while in Barcelona:

• Pa Amb Tomaquet - A simple Catalan recipe consisting of bread (toasted or not) with tomato spread and seasoned with olive oil and salt. It's simple yet delicious.
• Xipirons - Fried Squid
• Patatas Bravas - Fried potatoes served warm, served with tomato sauce or aioli.
• Manchego Cheese! It's everywhere in Spain and is arguably the BEST cheese ever.
• Jamon Iberico - A type of cured ham served on everything from sandwiches to pizza.
• Croquettes - These are everywhere in Spain, mainly made with ham. They are a breadcrumbed and fried roll of ham and potatoes.  Decadent, rich and savory. I dare you to eat more than 4!
• Paella - Originating in 19th century Valencia, Spain, it's a dish with humble roots. It consists of sticky bomba rice, vegetables, meat and/or shell fish with seasoning such as saffron and rosemary.